When examining historical periods, the fashion of the time is incredibly important in understanding the political landscape. It is a useful tool to understand the attitudes, behaviors and attributes of society or the group of interest. A good, and drastic, example of this phenomenon is La Movida Madrileña in Spain; it is defined as a hedonistic cultural movement that featured drug use and open sexual expression. This period emerged in the 1980s after the unceremonious death of Francisco Franco Bahamonde in 1975, ending one of Europe’s longest-serving dictators. La Movida Madrileña was pioneered by artists and the LGBTQ+ community, manifesting itself in unconventional and revealing clothes, heavy makeup and voluminous hair. These were all radical acts of expression and liberation as Spain shifted from a radically conservative dictatorship to a liberal constitutional monarchy in only a couple of years.
One can look at the United States today in a similar light. I argue that the shift towards conservatism in this election cycle is reflected in recent fashion trends. The return of specific styles of clothing, like Ralph Lauren “Americana” and the “Old Money” aesthetic, in the past couple of years have been indicative of this lean towards conservatism. TikToker Elysia Berman posted a video days after the outcome of the election, stating that the return to these trends mirrors a return to conservative values. Berman asserts that “[t]here is a value system associated with that aesthetic. We are returning to that aesthetic because we have returned to that value system.” The value systems that Berman mentions are this return to hyperfemininity, patriotism and conformity. The “cottagecore” trend is an example of this phenomenon; long and flowy dresses with frills and bows exemplify specific hyperfeminine ideals, which include conventionally feminine colors and silhouettes. The return of Americana and cowboy styles shows an element of patriotism. The comment section of Berman’s video has multiple examples of this phenomenon in pop culture and fashion. Culturally, many cite the recent “tradwife” trend on TikTok, which mirrors the resurgence of conservative ideals.
Berman also stated in her TikTok that “typically, people who are on the left are a little bit more invested in personal style and authentic expression of self,” while more conservative values include conformity. Recently we have seen a rise in the “clean girl” aesthetic, which focuses on natural-looking makeup; contrast that with the heavy, colorful makeup of La Movida Madrileña. Cultural cues and fashion trends are indicative of the political landscape and might even be able to predict the outcome of elections.
The TikTok concluded with Berman talking about an avant-garde fashion duo, Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran of Fecal Matter. Berman saw Fecal Matter speak at Dover Street Market in New York City, and Berman stated that the duo talked about “existing as they exist is a radical act.” Berman goes on to explain that when one lives in a conservative climate, having an authentic personal style and not conforming is a radical act. Shopping secondhand and favoring indie designers are ways to politically engage against conservatism. When the norm is one thing, existing outside that is inherently a radical act. There are many ways we can engage with politics, and what clothes we choose to put on our bodies is political.
Sam Semsel ’25 is a government and law major.